Signs

The snowbirds are starting to arrive and traffic on our peaceful little island increases. With this increase the number of people ignoring signs increases.

 The first warning is a generous 2 miles before the dead-end. Additional reminders continue until at Turtle Beach there is a huge sign ringed with flashing yellow lights.Finally, a last set of signs and gates which discourage those oblivious to the previous warnings. A very few, refusing to believe the truth - turn into our driveway, drive 20 yards and finally see the drop off into the water. I await the day that is not enough and hear a car splash.

First warning:

Turtle Beach warning:

For the totally clueless who must now execute a 3 point turn:

On the lighter side, we have discovered the Legacy Trail - miles of paved bike paths between Sarasota and Venice. Water, restrooms and even a couple bike repair stations. We enjoy riding to Venice Beach for a break in riding.

Because De Anne fears southern Florida might be too cold for her in January we have made plans to spend a month in St. Croix.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Temp vacation

Our refugee status ended when we traveled north from Atlanta to Jasper GA. Roughly 50 miles or 2 to 3 hours in metro Atlanta traffic. We rented a cabin for 10 days with the goal of attending a family wedding and reunion then spending the remaining time with Tristan and Kat in the North Georgia mountains.

Alas, Tristan's ship was called to hurricane relief and all leaves were cancelled. My plan had been to send Tristan off hiking with De Anne. As a young, fit Navy Officer and amateur marathon runner I thought him the ideal candidate to keep up with De Anne's long stride and mile-eating ways. So much for that plan.... I have accompanied her, and slowed her down.

My least favorite hike was an early morning excursion on Burnt Mountain. We were the first people of the day on the trail. I am sure of this fact since my face broke a few spider webs. I kept picking up increasing larger sticks until I had one 6 feet long. Try waving a 6 foot 10 pound stick constantly while hiking a rough trail with your wife behind you laughing.

Given a choice I opted one day for water falls. The brochure mentioned a quarter-mile trail to the falls. Just the right distance for me to hike. Not mentioned were the hundreds of stairs next to the falls.

From the top of the falls

Our temp vacation is ending, so time to head back to Siesta Key to resume our permanent vacation. 

Fun with Irma

Watching the path of Irma a week ago we were unconcerned as the path showed it on course up the east coast about 150 miles from us. Sure, we would get tropical storm conditions, but nothing we had not encountered before.

Then the NWS moved it inland 50 miles. That was vexing, but we stayed firm in our plans to stay put on Siesta Key. 12 hours later the projected path was moved another 50 miles west and closer to us with a voluntary evacuation recommended . We remained semi-firm. Finally, late on Friday morning a mandatory evacuation order was issued. We considered our options for a couple minutes and decided to flee in panic with a few million other Florida residents.

Interstate 75 was so horrible, it was almost like a normal travel day on Interstate 95. We arrived at De Anne's sisters' home Saturday afternoon making the 8 hour trip in 11 hours. Sunday we helped secure all items that could blow and awaited a degraded Irma to arrive.

Even seriously depleted Irma still had some punching power. Monday afternoon an enormous oak tree in their back yard fell. It went the only direction possible to miss a house but managed to fill the backyards of two neighbors. The oak slid down another large tree, which horizontally joined the first an hour later.

Base of oak with dog included for scale.

Good news from our next door neighbor. She stayed with family on the mainland in Sarasota and let us know the condo complex weathered Irma unscathed. Our refugee status with be temporary. 

Turtle Beach

The reason Turtle Beach was named thus is because of the high concentration of turtle nesting that goes on here. By May 1st we noticed all outdoor lights in the adjacent high-rise had been switched out to red lights and parking lot lights had been blacked out 75% leaving the equivalent of a flashlight pointed inland.

Last year, at a cost of over 21 million dollars, acres of sand were pumped from the Gulf onto the beach to combat the erosion. Much of that sand has already disappeared.  

Last week storms wrecked many sea turtle nests on the beach. The erosion left a cliff of sand that the turtles could not climb and therefore eggs got buried where high tides and storms would destroy them. Some turtles did find paths above the berms, but storm erosion laid them bare.

Although the replenishment project was touted as a help to the turtles, it was an inadvertent trap. I am reminded of the saying "We're from the government and we are here to help".

Nests all up and down the beach. Note the sea weed marking the tidal reach.

One nest up high, but still cut open by erosion with one stake dangling.

Proof once more that it's not nice to fool Mother Nature.

Sand

The north end of Siesta Key is 97 % white quartz sand. Easy on the feet, glistening in the sun, and soft to lay on. It also is useful when wet for sand castles.

We rode the open-air, free trolley from Turtle Beach to Siesta Beach  (a pleasant 15 minute ride when someone else is driving) to check out the amateur sand castle competition.

We learned that we must wait until November for the professional sand sculptors event.

In the meantime what blog entry would be complete without a photo of De Anne paddling away in her kayak with me on our balcony.

Happy Mother's Day from sunny Florida!

Paradise found

One week after our move to Siesta Key we have determined this is our ideal location. The bike riding is superb along Midnight Pass Road, and while I go 6 miles to the bridge and back - De Anne (naturally) covers the entire island, about 20 to 25 miles depending on the route. While I relax she drops her kayak into Midnight Pass, conveniently located in our back yard. She heads out into Little Sarasota Bay or just meanders through the mangrove channels south of us.

For the past 20 years on Sundays at sunset an ever-changing group gathers on Siesta Beach to beat their drums. We rode the free trolley up to the beach, packing our chairs and necessary fluids.

The crowd grew, dancing (sort of) began along with other games and I was thoroughly enjoying the ladies dancing when De Anne announced departure time was nigh. I was surprised. Usually I am the first to give up. Asking why (on the way to the the trolley stop) she explained it was hard on her ears. She was an accomplished violinist once and played in the Philharmonic orchestra. An hour of amateur drum beating was all her musically trained ears could handle.

The healing pyramid in the center of the circle. That's my best guess.

She did several costume changes:

Here is a young woman who has obviously used a hula hoop before (be gentle with film criticism - it's my first phone video):

Closer to home is Turtle Beach which may lack some of the beauty of Siesta Beach a few miles up the Key but is quite adequate for De Anne's beach walk needs and benefits from proximity. 

Island scenes

Just sitting on the porch provides enough entertainment watching the non-stop comings and goings of sailboats, power boats, commercial shrimpers, and the Coast Guard, but we do manage to get out and about the island.

 Next to our dock an osprey spent a leisurely afternoon shredding a fish and fending off the occasional crow or sea gull. He started calling (in the high pitched, irritating tone) to another osprey who came over briefly to check out his possible nesting site. It must have been sub-par - or maybe he was, because after a few minutes she left even though he called plaintively after her.

We walked our bikes to the top of the bridge for this view of the harbor. Yes, it is a pirate ship - every tourist port in Florida has one.

Loading up the bikes we headed to Lover's Key state park, because we needed more exercise than riding on pavement gave. Sand, the perfect surface for a strenuous ride. I was fooled at first by the smooth, hard-packed sand. That disappeared a mile or so into the wilderness where soft sand was the norm.

Sharing the path:

OK, I admit it was scenic:

Our wandering ways end on Friday. We have rented a furnished 2 bedroom condo for the next year. It is on the southern end of Siesta Key with everything necessary for De Anne's amusement. Small gated community with pool and a boat dock on Blind Pass and a few steps from beautiful Turtle beach.

Ding Darling

Yesterday we loaded our bikes and took off for the wilds of Ding Darling park on Sanibel Island. This lovely island is a much desired visit as the bumper to bumper bridge traffic proved. The toll was $6 to enjoy the 3 mph crossing and the most expensive part of the trip as my lifetime senior pass covered the park admittance. One of the perks of being an old fogey.

 The ranger was looking at me when he showed us a map with a shortcut back should we elect to not bike the entire 7 mile route. We did see the sign "Cross Dike" while riding by, but were past it when I realized it was referring to the short-cut, and not a warning sign.

 We joined some bird-watchers at a lookout and when I unzipped De Anne's backpack to retrieve the camera the zipper sound caused the group of serious bird-watchers to turn towards me with shaming looks. I waited a few moments for their attention to return to the flock and surreptitiously took this picture.

I completed the full 7 mile ride, or as De Anne would characterize it - a warm up. 

Time to find a beach! Unfortunately, millions (ever so slight an exaggeration) of others had the same idea before us. We retreated back to our place where the beach is across the street. 

Today is a high, high tide and a picture from 2:30 pm to prove it. Note our porch almost at sea level. De Anne is finishing the cleanup on her kayak. Tomorrow's tide might be a bit higher.

Estero bay

After a whole week of wearing windbreakers and socks we are warm again! It is spring break in Fort Myers Beach, but we are on the quiet end. Bowditch Point park is just a couple blocks away,

The front of Matanzas Pass:

Our dock is well protected:

As those acquainted with this blog understand this is a happy De Anne, setting out to tour the bay:

This sky banner is geared for the spring breakers.... I think....

2 and a half dogs

We arrived back in the cold, upper 48 States and spent a few days at De Linda and Lisa's house in Atlanta. De Anne was a big hit with their furry pack.

This week was a brief visit to Mexico Beach for a few chores and visiting with friends left behind seven months ago. If they would just install an ocean in Indiana we might visit those left behind seven years ago. But now, on to Fort Myers Beach where I can put on my crabby old man attitude and mix with the spring break kids.

We did get in a bike ride along Windmark Beach.

Bacardi

The storm passed and after two months we finally did the Bacardi tour. A bus ride, ferry across San Juan bay, and a cab ride put us at the welcome center where $30 got us a tour, and 2 glasses emblazoned with the appropriate logo from the largest privately owned spirit distiller. Our tour guide said over 500 family members worked for the company.

The entrance to the museum.

Our tour guide displaying the various renditions of this molasses based elixir.

Returning on the ferry past the US Coast Guard station.

Tomorrow concludes our island escape from winter, Our upcoming agenda: a few days in Atlanta, a week in Mexico Beach, and then a month in Fort Myers Beach.

Storm

Today was earmarked for a trip to the Bacardi factory; however, a storm discouraged that plan. We sat around with our books and listened to the windows rattle.

Note the empty beach and windblown trees. It was so bad Aquaman (see previous entry) did not not come down for his day long soak.

Culture

Saturday night was the opening event of the month-long Festival Casals de Puerto Rico.

We were invited to join Dagmar and husband Phillipe for the concert. Originally from France the couple has been in Puerto Rico three years, and Phillipe runs a cigar factory. De Anne first met Dagmar at an afternoon ladies event several weeks ago. Polish composer and conductor, 3 time Grammy winner, Krzysztof Penderecki (yes, I never heard of him either) directed the symphony orchestra, two choirs - adult and children's, plus 6 opera soloists.

 De Anne was thrilled by the performance and I stayed awake, so the evening was a success.

Sunrise

Not all sunrises are equal. the white chairs on the right mark the Ritz Carlton beach area.
 (click to enlarge)

Island tour

Wednesday and Thursday was a road trip to see the rest of the island. Our first driving adventure!

Let's set the stage. Puerto Rico has more cars per square mile than anywhere else in the world. It also has more potholes than anywhere else I have been, but the fun does not stop there - the potholes are deep too. Stop signs are just a suggestion. On mountain roads local drivers use the middle of the road to avoid the crumbling road edges and overhanging trees and bamboo. They will politely veer off about a foot for you. This causes my usually taciturn wife to emit a small shriek adding to my white knuckle condition.

On the south coast the GPS became unreliable. It put me into a school parking lot and at several hair-pin turns announced turns into the brush. Lucky for me I don't fool that easy. Without rhyme or reason small roads led into four lane highways that gave out after a few miles and then back to twisty small roads again.

On the east side of the island some order was restored. We stopped at the largest marina in the Caribbean for a dockside lunch. The marina was huge with very wide fixed concrete docks. It soon became obvious why. Arriving boaters drove their car into one of 15 covered bays(picture below). At each bay was a large two wheel cart. Once you unload your car into the cart a dockboy, driving a golf cart hooks up you cart, then you and crew climb aboard the 4 to 6 passenger golf cart and are whisked out the docks to unload directly on to your boat. How upscale is that?

Thursday was a little better on the major highway on the north side of the island; however at one point I got behind a flat bed truck and was worried about his load. It was a full grown horse balancing on the bed of the truck with no rails or tie downs in sight. Maybe the horse has done this before - it was standing with its legs slightly spread out.

I finally worked up the courage to try mofongo, the unofficial national dish of Puerto Rico. Mashed plantains smothered in a garlicky sauce with pork. I could not finish the huge portion I was given.

.
The restaurant had a major added attraction - on a beach with the reef just a 100 yards off the sand. The large Atlantic rollers breaking on the rocks were spectacular.

We now are at peace having seen more of the island, jointly agreeing we could not improve on our current location and vowing to leave the driving to others,

Aquaman

After almost a week overlooking Isla Verde beach we are becoming familiar with our surroundings.

Every day about 7:30 am a man in a wet suit, with a straw hat on, and carrying a kayak paddle, wades out just past the breaking waves and stands in the water for the next 5 or 6 hours. While it is possible there is a valid explanation for this behavior, I can't think of one and so I chalk it up to mental problems. He is peaceful and bothers no one so we just keep an eye out for who we have dubbed as Aquaman.

 Aquaman (click to enlarge)

Just before the storm a rainbow:

Full moon rising:

Tomorrow we rent a car and head to the mountains.

Vertical distance

Our new place is actually farther away from the ocean, but only if you account for the vertical distance. We are now in the top floor of a six floor condo building in a nice 1 bedroom/1 bath unit.

We are paying the electric bill for the month, so (forsaking AC) all windows and doors are wide open to the sea breeze. The only problem with this so far, happened when I was seasoning our steak for dinner. I sprinkled the pepper like always and had not factored in the wind whipping through. The pepper went sideways. It is a cross I will bear.

Our new bedroom, then the view from the bedroom balcony.

plazas

We have not yet tired of touring Old San Juan. Tuesday's trek took us past several plazas.

Across from the Capitol building - St. John the Baptist, and no, that is not his middle finger extended.

Continuing along the water is this military lamb - an odd combination. 

There is even a park for pigeons. Note the cubbyholes in the wall.

The central plaza.

Many streets are paved with blue glazed bricks. This street has naturally occurring speed bumps.

Finally! sustenance at a place named Blue Burger. I will not belabor the obvious, but will note it was excellent!