Full House

We have gone from empty last week to full this week. The additional folks represent the UK, Canada, Russia, and Austria. Lucky for us that English is the common language, plus several of them speak Spanish too. In fact, most Europeans seem to have a good handle on Spanish while most of us Americans fall woefully short in the bi and tri-language category.

Tonight we are all going to the finest restaurant in Manta to celebrate De Anne's birthday. I got her a set of earrings and a necklace made in Ecuador and thanks to Linda's negotiating skills they were purchased at quite a reasonable price.

Pretty girl, ugly dog

New guests

We have spent several days as Linda's sole guests; however, on Wednesday afternoon Dennis and Cheryl arrived from Canada. They had visited last spring and stayed with Linda for a month. They went back to Canada, sold everything, came back to Ecuador and are staying with Linda until their condo is ready.

To celebrate their return Linda called her friend Armando (age 80 something?) who owns a restaurant in the fishing village just south of us and made a reservation. The reservation was necessary because Armando is only open for lunch. He will stay open for Linda if she calls before 4:00 p.m.

The ladies ordered shrimp, I ordered the rice and clams, and Dennis got the most expensive item on the menu - grilled prawns at $13.50. Expecting the small clams we are use to in the states, I was surprised by huge clams that had to be quartered just to make them bite-sized. Next visit - I order the prawns!

Thursday was overcast, but since De Anne reported seeing a 5 foot monitor lizard on the cliff up the beach stalking a baby goat, I felt the need to investigate myself. We did catch a few fleeting glimpses of the goats but no predatory repitiles. We agreed the cooler weather might have kept the beast in his lair.

Beer run

Yesterday afternoon I went into town with Linda on a beer run to restock the cafe and to (finally!) pick up the second wireless router. First thing was to chase Mozzarella the cat off the car.

We picked up the router but the car would not start. I beat the terminals with the only tool available - a tire iron. Then a taxi driver offered a jump which did not work either. Linda called her mechanic, then walked over to SuperMaxi, leaving me with the car. While waiting for him I sat by the car on a low stone wall.

A man passing out brochures was working the parking lot and approached me. OK - I was looking a bit scruffy, with my dark tan, had on a white polo shirt, streaked with dirt from fiddling under the hood of the car, and lounging like a local. He came up to me, said a few words incomprehensible to me and handed me a brochure. After he strolled on I examined the flyer and realized it was about a school that teaches English. Once again proof that when separate from De Anne I sometimes pass for Hispanic.

 The mechanic arrived and got us going, but we had to follow him into the seedy side of town to buy a new battery. By that point we headed back to the beach and left the beer for another day.

Weekend at Linda's

It was a busy weekend!

I developed a slight sinus infection so a visit to the pharmacy was required. Unlike America, in Ecuador prescription drugs do not need a doctor's script. The pharmacist discusses your symptoms with you and decides on the necessary medications.

We arrived at the drugstore still deciding how best to overcome the language barrier. Linda met a Russian expat she knew who was fluent in English and Spanish; however, she did not know the Spanish word for "sinus". We took a number, waited our turn, and called Geri - a German who works for Linda and somewhat fluent in Spanish. When it was my turn at the counter I handed the phone to the pharmacist. Gari was able to tell him "The man has a stuffy head". The pharmacist handed the phone back to me and said in perfect English "So you have a sinus infection?". We discussed the symptoms and he gave me two drugs for a total cost of $14.

 Two days after starting the meds I developed some gastronomic problems. I Googled the meds I was given and discovered they were more powerful than those commonly used in America, and a frequent side-effect was exactly what I was experiencing. I have quit eating for a few days and due to my more than ample body reserves am now on the road to recovery.

Sunday was to be a day of rest; however, as usual things came up. Linda and De Anne gave a Manta tour for 2 American couples. In return they bought lunch for Linda and De Anne. Unfortunately they paid the check with a credit card. They said they had used it many times over the past few days. Too bad, I am sure their credit card is now in wider use throughout Ecuador than they anticipate. Having heard far too many horror stories about credit cards in Ecuador my wallet stays in our room safe and I carry only cash (split between 2 different pockets) and a photocopy of our passports.

After depositing the American couples back at their hotel Linda and De Anne picked me up and we headed to the Manta airport to pickup a returning expat couple. Howard and Judy were a very nice couple and gave us a tour of their home. They own the entire top floor penthouse in an upscale building with a large 3 sided terrace overlooking the ocean and the city. They took us out for dinner. I just had bottled water but Linda and De Anne ended Sunday eating free all day.

In the picture below is a 10 year-old Ecuadorian boy who is an expert kite surfer. I watched him execute many flips and rolls with ease. The girl in the picture is Jennifer, also an accomplished kite sufer who uses Linda's outdoor shower every afternoon - coincidentally with the time that the male population of the cafe reaches its daily peak.

All about flexibility

After several power outages and a faulty wireless router I am back online again! Life in Ecuador is all about flexibility.

Once the power is off water is off too. Of course drinking water is only from the 5 gallon bottles, but tap water relies on an electric pump connected to an outdoor cistern. Every few days a tanker truck pulls up to fill the cistern. This water should never be consumed, however I am surprised how many people don't realize that brushing your teeth with tap water is still consuming it. These new visitors learn a quick, hard lesson.

Yesterday we talked to a man who arrived a few days ago from Las Vegas and is looking for a beach front house. We mentioned the need for flexibility in all dealings here and he replied he was aware of that necessity. He ranted on the power being off, then explained his expertise in Las Vegas real estate and how much it would help him here. I anticipate a future windfall in some Ecuadorian bank accounts. At least we set him straight on taxi fares. He paid $30 for the ride from Manta to the beach. The fare is an $8 ride.

Flexibility is needed at the downtown market too. I went shopping with Linda. We visited several stalls. At the fish stall she bought 5 pounds of fish. The sign on the wall clearly stated $2.50 per pound. Through rapid mental calulation that would be $12.50 total. He asked for $15. Linda pointed to the sign and protested. He looked at his own sign, turned back around and said "Fifteen dollars". Linda said no and reached out to hand the fish back. He smiled and and said "OH.... $12.50". Next stop was the cheese vendor. She bought 3 pounds for $2.20 per pound. Her change was $5 short. After a short but emotionally charged exchange complete with some of my fiercest looks backing up Linda he suddenly realized his "mistake", gave her the $5 and grins and giggles were exchanged all around.

All of this is part of the fun and adventure of being in Ecuador. Of course there is always the peace and quiet of a beach all to ourselves. The picture below is wide distant shot of De Anne that you may have to click and enlage to find her. I tried to convey just how big and remote our beach is.

Matchmaker

One of Linda's friend's - Let's call him CG (Canadian Gringo) asked her if she knew any single Ecuadorian ladies. Linda did, and arrainged a meeting at a social gathering on Sunday. The Ecuadorian lady - let's call her CEL (classy Ecuadorian lady) arrived with her 20 year-old daughter.

After a brief introduction the split into male group and female group occurred  quite similar to an informal American party. After brunch CG asked CEL if she would like to take a short walk along the beach. CEL approched her daughter and asked permission. The daughter gave her permission and CEL walked with CG.

 In Ecuador a proper lady does not go alone on a date with a man until at least the third date and only then after proper vetting by her family.

  Justin, an expat mentioned in this blog on our previous trip, had been dating (accompanied by her mother) a 41 year-old Ecuadorian university professor. Now - 4 months later - we will be attending their wedding later this month.

Although I noted in this previous entry "Where the boys are" that some men are looking for girls, there are still some men looking for ladies.

 The picture below shows the change in the landscape since our last visit. We are now at the end of the dry season and everything is dried out.

Crucita

We took a day trip to the small coastal village of Crucita Friday. We had lunch with the Crucita expats at a beachside cafe.

On the way back to Manta, Linda once again ran a police checkpoint. Someday I may get use to her doing that. Since she does not have a driver's licence or insurance she sees no point in stopping and getting into a long, fruitless discussion with the Policia officers. Her ace-in-the-hole is that Ecuador law states that once a person is over 65 they cannot be put in jail for any reason. The officers glance at her then ignore her, of course I am cringing and sliding down in the seat.

Just after the roadblock we stopped at a roadside produce stand where prices were embarrassingly cheap. A bag of 20 oranges is one dollar. One of our fellow passengers, Esther (Chinese-born, Canadian citizen, now living in Ecuador) bought a month's supply of produce. De Anne made 3 trips to the car helping Esther load it all.

At the produce stand:

Pictures as promised yesterday

We watched the humpback whales frolicking last night as only a 30 ton animal can. No pictures so you just have to believe me or come see for yourself. Linda's Place on Santa Marianita Beach:

The Donkey Den Cafe. Opened by Linda since our last visit:

De Anne staring wistfully out to sea at a passing sailboat race:

This is the $4.50 lunch on the beach. I'll neaver be able to enjoy a shrimp dinner in the USA again:

Back on the Beach

It was a calm and peaceful trip back to Manta, Ecuador. Rather than the excitement and sensory rush of a new country we knew where we were going and what to expect. Even the layover in Panama was in an airport we had visited before.

 The only slight bump in the road was when the driver scheduled to pick us up at the Guayaquil airport failed to show. Not only were we looking for a sign with "WHITE" on it but also - since there is no "W" in Spanish - we craftily looked for a sign with "BLANCO" on it. No big problem. I was determined not to repeat our last Guayaquil taxi experience and not only quizzed the driver, but gave him inch by inch instruction until our hotel was in sight. I'm sure he felt he had earned that dollar tip I gave him. I only admit to the tip because De Anne never reads this blog.... something about "I was there".

 We took the high-class executive bus to Manta. Sure, it cost more but sometimes you just gotta pay for luxury. The difference between a $5.00 ticket and $4.00 ticket is something we will have to make up along the line. Lucky for us we are here for two months and have plenty of time to recover from our extravagance.

One odd thing about Ecuador highways - speed bumps. We think since speed bumps are cheaper than stop lights (and a lot harder to ignore) they put a few at every town to slow down traffic. Let's just say that a drinking game involving Ecuador speed bumps would result in unconscious players after 10 miles.

 Linda has been busy over the past 4 months and the place looks great! Pictures on the next post.