Happy New Year

I used an old saying on a previous blog that is quite apropos now: "Life is what happens when you are making plans".

Our tours of far away and out-of-touch places is being put on hiatus for a few years. We are making plans to buy an RV and make a few loops around the USA.

 Our elder son, a Navy Officer, was supposed to be stationed in Maryland for the next three years after two foreign tours in Japan and Diego Garcia; however, the government changed its' and his plans. He will return briefly to the States for special combat training and language instruction then ship off for the first of two overseas tours.

 Some day you may wake up and find an RV in your driveway. Be careful what you wear when you charge out the door. I do love a good action picture for the blog.

 De Anne and wish all of you a Happy New Year!

Free range wife

Our cruise was relaxing, a little exciting, and a herd experience. We have discovered the truth of the old World War I song "How ya gonna keep 'em down on the farm after they've seen Paree?".  We met some nice people and it was an overall enjoyable experience, but we have gotten use to doing what we want, when we want.

 I have a free range wife that does not like to run with the herd. In Belize I hung out on the waterfront while De Anne checked out a tourist shop. She discovered the back entrance to the store and a gate to the rest of Belize City. She just wanted to see the other side for a minute; however, a pair of military policemen turned her back into the tourist section telling her it was not safe past the gate.

 We did have a couple of snorkeling stops in Cozumel and on Grand Cayman that she really enjoyed. In Cozumel we took a cab to a beach bar where she could relax under a thatched cabana while I snorkeled the reef and vice versa. Our cab driver returned after four hours and he and I together stood on the pier and waved her in. On Seven Mile beach in Grand Cayman she snorkeled with an English couple while I watched everyone's beach bags. I had hurt my foot on a lounge chair the day before and therefore was relegated to guard duty. Seven Mile beach is De Anne's new favorite beach in the world (until her next new favorite).

 Our police escort leaving Cozumel.

On the waterfront in Belize City.

Roatan, Honduras. The importance of staying inside the channel markers.

Seven Mile beach. See the dive boats in the distance. Without fins, De Anne snorkeled almost that far out.

Plan B

It has been just over a month since our return from Europe. One might think a 100 days touring Italy, France, Belgium, and Spain would cure the travel bug for quite a while; but then, you underestimate the travel urges of my wife.

 Plan A was a trip to Costa Rica. The Pacific coast town we had our hearts set on proved difficult and expensive to get to. Alas, that trip was scrapped.

 After a few days of heavy sighs from my fellow traveler and life companion I found an alternative plan for her entertainment. An inexpensive, last minute booking that pleased the cheapskate in both of us.

 Plan B involves 3 countries, with some snorkeling thrown in. I am almost embarrassed to report we are taking a Caribbean cruise to Mexico, Belize, and the Cayman Islands. Not exactly our modus operandi for the past two years; however, it has one redeeming factor - De Anne liked the idea. We sail on Saturday.

Since this is a rather ordinary vacation I will report the trials and tribulations associated with luxury travel, endless food, non-stop entertainment and tropical seas in one blog entry upon our return.

Europe wrapup

Having recovered from jet lag, here are a few additional pictures. Click to enlarge:

Along the Amalfi coast in Italy. We passed through the arch on the left.

Also on the Amalfi coast.

First view of Notre Dame.

Terrible picture, but proof I was there.

My favorite spot in Paris. Between the two islands in the Seine.

In Belgium horses are allowed on the beach after 7:30pm

Square overlooking the sea in Tarragona Spain.

The road cutting through the middle of the Roman Forum. Built by Mussolini for reviewing his troops, proving dictators can fundamentally change countries quickly.

Rome street vendor with an eye for artistic presentation.

Finally, some personal thoughts and impressions on our 3 months in Europe.

Europeans, like the people in the western hemisphere countries we have visited, are different from Americans. I have read that Americans are aggressive, and considered sometimes rude. It was still surprising to see this heretofore abstract idea actually true. The mildest, laid-back American would be considered a bit brash in many other countries. I tried my hardest to have a mellow attitude but still managed to make De Anne cringe a few times.

The overriding principle in America is "I have rights" and "I can do anything I want". Nothing wrong with that - my father always said that rights entail responsibility. We kept the rights, but somewhere lost the responsibility. In other countries the expectation of rights seems to me to be much lower. I saw a couple police incidents in Paris that would have drawn a screaming crowd and a lot of cell phone cameras out in America; however,  the folks on the street moved away and made no eye contact with the police.

In Spain the week after my little run in with the train thieves we were on board again and some very tough looking police were at the station where the gang had boarded. In Tarragona women could walk the street at night alone and safe. One night about 11:00pm, looking off our balcony, I saw an elderly woman shuffling by on the other side of the street. She paused, pulled a small wad of bills from her purse, counted them, stuffed them away again, and shuffled on. Try that in an American downtown.

I think we must visit a few more countries to reach a definite conclusion of cause and effect, but Americans are different.

Once more unto the breach dear friends

We wrapped up our tour of Rome with a site not requiring public transportation. We walked to San Giovanni in Laterano. This was the center of the Roman Catholic world for a thousand years, before St. Peter's was built. It is still the home church of the Bishop of Rome (ie: the Pope). Anyone elected Pope is not officially the Pope until he sits in the white bishop's chair in front of the first artistic rendering of Jesus.

The bronze doors once opened on to the Roman Senate. De Anne adding some scale.

From the transept.

Across the street are the Scala Santa, holy stairs. Emperor Constantine's mother went to Jerusalem in 326AD and brought back the 28 marble steps from Pontius Pilate's house. You can look, but if you want to climb you have to do it on you knees. For €2.50 the gift shop will sell you the booklet with the correct prayer to say on each step. I opted to just watch. The line up was not moving very fast.

After I took the picture De Anne whispered that pictures are not allowed.

Now all we have left to do is try to get out, since we overstayed the 90 day EU tourist visa. If necessary I will be my usual sweet self.

Hills of Rome

Today De Anne suggested a stroll in Rome's big park - Villa Borghese. Yes, those are obelisks, but they don't count - not Egyptian.

I need to start reading the guide book. This was a big park! We finally reached the lake in the center and it was a lovely spot. Not the ducks making wakes in a dash towards us.

After completing the park tour De Anne suggested we visit Spanish Steps again since she did not climb them on our first visit and it was "close by". That trek put us close to Trevi Fountain, so why not a return visit there too? Now Capitoline Hill was close so.... Up the hill I went. The smallest and tallest of the seven hills of Rome. 

The statue of Marcus Aurelius is the oldest surviving bronze monument from Roman times. The folks in the Middle Ages mis-identified it as Constantine raising his hand in a blessing so they did not destroy it like so many other Roman statues.

A gardener getting instruction on shaping shrubs for Romulus and Remus under the wolf.

We finished our walk at the Colosseum subway stop yet again. Passing the Forum I have yet to tire of gazing across to Palatine Hill.

Now, on a totally different note. I am getting tired of being felt up on every bus and tram. I have been handled more than lap dancer this week. At least they are very gentle. You hardly feel it when they start. One guy got careless today and when I spun around he hopped of the tram quickly. My euro bills are in a cargo pocket with a double Velcro flap and I have a big safety pin sealing the pocket under the flap. They are welcome to anything they can find in the other pockets. I always stand on the tram with that pocket and my belt mounted camera pressed against a pole. It was funny the first few times, now it is just tiresome. Still better than violent American criminals. 

More pointy things

Today De Anne announced (surprise!) a walk through the old city of Rome. We went roughly north-south last night, so today was east-west day. We walked to the Roman baths, a huge building that, like most big Roman buildings, was converted into a church. The Romans had a hot pool and a warm pool along with the accoutrements required in a bath house for 3,000 paying customers such as massages, pedicures, and harlots. The enormous cold pool was outside.

The remodel to a church raised the floor 15 feet so that is why it looks a bit cramped in the picture below.

The ceiling was the last work done by Michelangelo. He was 86 at the time and wanted a ceiling with a play of light. I wonder if the old man was tired of painting in wet plaster on his back.

The next stop (my request) was Santa Maria Della Vittoria to see Bernini's "Teresa in Ecstasy".

Moving on down the street to view Bernini's outside work. With another obelisk in the middle.

Our walk took us by the paralyzed and ineffective Italian parliament, or at least their building, with - of course - an obelisk in front and a few guys with machine guns.

We reached the Pantheon, a former Roman temple to all their gods, then turned into a church. It is noted for the perfect dome that is open at the top. The original marble floor is in place and sloped to allow the rain water from the 30 foot diameter skylight drain away. The dome was constructed of Roman concrete that is still structurally sound 2,000 years later. 

The sign over the front roughly translated : Marcus Agrippa built this.

Just in front of the Pantheon was an obelisk. This was a mini-obelisk inside another fountain.

Egypt made obelisks and 1,000 years later the Romans looted them. 500 years later the Roman Catholic Church grabbed them, who gets them next?

First you steal an obelisk

I realize that I may not accrue a great deal of sympathy, but this tourist stuff is hard work! I have been spoiled by having 2 weeks or a month to explore an area. One week in Rome puts us on the fast track of sightseeing.

This morning we got to the Vatican early. The line in front of us at security was 4 people. We wandered through St. Peter's, noting the marble that was missing from the Colosseum yesterday.

We took the elevator to the bottom of the dome for this shot and a closer look at the dome mosaics.

De Anne, sweet wife, offered to climb the 330 steps to the top of the dome solo. Silly me tagged along. The first leg was a narrow set of marble stairs. Half way up those steps a young woman was coming down, yelling "don't go up there! It's too hard!". Silly me kept going even though the young woman had confirmed my secret fear.

The narrow marble steps ended at a marble spiral staircase with a knotted rope hanging down for support. No hand rail had yet made an appearance. This lasted about four stories, until we hit another narrow staircase. This one was against the dome so we had slanted walls. It was so narrow I had to walk up sideways. My shoulders would not fit. That lasted a couple more stories. Finally we got to wide metal stairs for the last couple stories. 

Still some slant showing.

The reward at the top.

Note the obelisk, stolen by the Roman Empire from Egypt, and recycled later by the church. Put a cross on top and it is no longer a pagan object.

The trip down was slightly better, not having to hoist my massive bulk against gravity. On legs of jelly I regained terra firma and headed towards the bus stop determined to live long enough to see the apartment again and feel air conditioning. I did pause briefly to take this required picture of a Swiss guard.

After I cooled down, was fed lunch, and took a nap, I awoke to the sight of De Anne studying the guide book. We were going out for an early evening "Dolce Vita stroll".

Starting at the Piazza del Popolo the entrance to Rome before trains, planes, and automobiles. Note another obelisk from Egypt.

We moved down the Via del Corso, detouring to see Mausoleum of Agustus, then another detour to visit the Spanish Steps. Yes, another obelisk.

The Sinking Boat Fountain with the teeming hordes on the Spanish Steps.

Yet another detour to the Trevi Fountain. I added a penny ($0.013 in US currency) to the collection in the fountain.

Night was falling as we arrived at Capitoline Hill, crossed the ruins of the Roman Forum and arrived back at the Colosseum to catch the subway to Termini and the tram home.

De Anne studying the ruins.

The Eternal city

Sunday was our first day in Rome, so as is our custom, we hopped a bus for the cheap tour. €1.50 buys 100 minutes of transportation. Our return trip ended back at Termini. All modern transportation in Rome leads to Termini train station. The two subway lines, trams, and buses all go through Termini. Across the street is the Museum of Rome. We finished day one there.

A couple favorites. Bronze casting using wax. An art lost for centuries.

Boxer at rest.

The Romans loved Greek art and had little original art of their own. Demand for Greek art was high so a large industry was created making knock-offs. I noticed a trend while reading the descriptions of many Roman busts. The dating of busts was done by the hair style. Romans changed hairstyles every decade or two.

Bust of Brutus, famous for stabbing Julius Caesar.

"Wounded Noibid" The contortions of the woman are her attempt to pull an arrow from her back

Starting early this morning we set out for the Colosseum. I rank this right up there with the Eiffel Tower tour. We were stopped by a tour rep. at the entrance and De Anne deferred the decision to me. I agreed to a tour in English and we joined a dozen other English speaking tourists as the only Americans in the group. We sailed past the long ticket line and got a great tour! 

The marble that covered the Colosseum, inside and out, was stripped in the Middle Ages, mostly for church building and especially for St. Peter's. the holes everywhere are where the lead pins holding the stones together were looted.

The tour also included the Roman Forum. 

De Anne was surprised when after only six and half hours of walking, stair climbing, and hill climbing I was tired. She reluctantly agreed to head back to the apartment. From Termini we take a tram to our apartment. At one point we were stopped in a line of trams and I feared some unplanned walking was about to happen. It was quite a relief when we began moving again after a short wait.

3 trams waiting under the ruins.