Off to the big city

Today we hopped on a red devil (former US school bus) for a trip to the 3rd largest city in Panama, David. Pronounced Dah-vide

Last week the laundry shorted us a washcloth. Yes, we drop off clothes at a laundry for washing, drying , and folding – all for $3 a load. No problem until now. De Anne went back to the laundry – no washcloth. She scoured the local stores – no white washcloths for sale.

Off to the big city! The bus ride was $2 cheaper this time. I guess we now look like we know what we are doing and less like gringo rubes. There is a lot to be said for not swivelling your head all around with your mouth hanging open.

We found the right washcloth at the first stop – El Rey, a very large and modern supermarket, for the princely sum of $1.44. Of course factoring in the 42 km bus ride for a round trip total of $7.00 for two did increase the overall cost, but we decided to do some sight-seeing too. Besides it gave De Anne a chance to play one of her favorite games - “Look, we could have bought it for less here!”. The winner of the game was a street vendor downtown who was selling 4 washcloths for a dollar.

We left the suburban mall and hailed a taxi for the trip downtown – NO, WAIT! That was my idea, instead, at De Anne's insistence, we walked to town thus saving the $2 cab fare. Along the way we were honked at by about 100 taxis who obviously thought there was some problem with Americans walking.

Downtown David was a disappointment. Lots of blue smoke belching traffic, trash, and mud. Still, even in the city folks were friendly.

After assuring ourselves we had seen the best of downtown David (see pictures below) we made our way to the bus terminal and got back to Boquete in time for a late lunch at Big Daddy's where drinks are half-price if it is raining (which it was).

Mosquito threat indicator


Fancy downtown hotel


The other nice spot in downtown The plaza


Now normally a traffic light is not considered photogenic; however, this is the only one in the entire province. It's been over a month since I have last seen one.


Pulling out of the bus station

Shopping day

Shopping day starts with a trip to the bakery on the south side of town. We tried the bread baked in the grocery store and found that although the bread came in all shapes and sizes it was always the same, soft white bread.

Being filthy rich (that's Panamanian standards – not American) we have been buying bread from the gourmet bakery. Big unsliced loaves of 9 grain and sourdough, plus the occasional fresh-baked brownie are wonderful.

Next stop is the dollar store for paper goods and soap. Aisles are setup for the average Panamanian who is 5'5” and about 100 lbs. I crab around sideways trying not to be the bull in the china shop.

A few blocks north is the 3rd stop – the grocery store. We wander around to find where things we need have been moved to since our last trip.

The forth and final stop is 4 blocks west. The produce stand. We like this one because unlike the other dozen stands in town they usually have bananas with a touch of green. Everyone else sells them half black.

Chores done we head back, stopping by the stream for De Anne to cool her toes.


This house, across from the stream, is unusual because it is wood siding. 95% of homes are concrete block with a parge coat. Roofs are corrugated metal. Clay tiles are installed over that on the expensive homes.

Big brains

According to a study out of the University of Pittsburgh “ Healthy people who walk at least six miles a week have bigger brains, better memories and improved mental function compared with couch potatoes.”

This week I have hiked 18 miles. Monday 6, Wednesday 7, and today 5 miles. Of course, a heart attack might offset these brain improvements; however, barring that or falling off the cliffs along the roadside or getting splattered by a taxi, I think I feel smarter.

De Anne walks 3 times as much, so..... applying the aforementioned logic I am still a dunce next to her. OK, I hear the snickering, and was that an “amen!” in the back row?

Scenes from today's walk:

A stand of bamboo


Lazy flowers- can't even stand up!


Valcano Baru hidden by clouds. We hope to avoid a Pompeii moment. After all if we are dug up in 2,000 years I can imagine some PhD saying "Examining these two figures proves men got most of the food and women were forced to live on table scraps".


Sugarcane field


Looking down on Boquete. Also proof of my hill climbing. Some road side drop offs are steeper than this.


One lane is plenty

Change you can count on

Panama is a cash based society. A very few, upscale places take credit cards; however the places we frequent are cash only. We pay off our credit cards every month; but this was the first cycle in a decade with no charges. I could get used to seeing zero balances!

Change is a problem. I have learned to carry a couple dollars in change everywhere. My first learning experience regarding the need for change came at a fruit stand. De Anne bought 2 bananas for 15 cents. I handed the clerk a quarter. She looked puzzled for a moment, then handed me another banana. We left before it dawned on me that the first two bananas cost me seven and a half cents apiece and the third ten cents. I hope to survive the financial loss of two and a half cents.

Even at the supermarket the cashiers will ask for exact change. They will wait until you dig into your pocket, pull out your change, examine it with you, and only after verifying you can't make correct change will they part with their precious coins.

Speaking of fruit stands... We have figured out the produce market here. All fruit stands sell bananas individually here. They get the bananas that fall off the stalks during picking. Stalks of bananas are shipped off, but those that fall off are sold local. We see trucks go by with sacks of softball size onions while all we can buy are the golfball size.

I'm not complaining – the wide variety of produce we get is fresh and cheap. Pineapples are a real treat. One dollar gets a just picked, perfectly ripe pineapple that is sweet as candy.

Cultural Differences

De Anne likes to take hikes with me. Even though I slow her down and she can't cover 10 or 15 miles with me in tow, she can wear shorts when I am along as bodyguard.

Panamanian men seem to think that exposed knees and thighs are the mark of a loose woman requiring horn honking and catcalls. I have yet to see a Panamanian woman in less than capri pants.

Tops are a whole different issue. Young Panamanian women can wear the barest of flimsy, plunging tops without causing a stir, but show a little knee and the men go wild.

De Anne packed some jeans; however, for the longer hikes they were too warm later in the day. We found a pair of cotton capris in a local store for $10 and that solved the problem of her solo walks.

Tuesday morning Ex-pat market:


The view from our front porch:

How old do you think I am?

De Anne and I were hiking (uphill) when we were stopped by 2 Panamanian ladies. After a few pleasantries one turned to me, pointed to her friend and asked the question all men dread “How old do you think she is? After rapidly performing the necessary mental calculations all men learn the hard way – namely, perform an honest evaluation then subtract 20% , I answered 28. Both maintained a poker face and the questioner compounded my discomfort by asking “How old do you think I am?” Now I was boxed in because she looked a little older than her friend. In a true male performance I pretended to study her while trying to figure a way out of this trap. I took the cowards way out and answered, “You both look the same age”. It turned out both were in their early 40's so I was allowed to leave without creating an international crisis.

Happy with my narrow escape we hiked further up the hill. A man stopped us and wanted to practice his English. Once again, after pleasantries, came THE question “How old do you think I am?” Now I was on safe ground guessing a man's age. I studied him, noted he was walking difficult terrain, and answered 60. I missed by 27 years – he was 87!

As we continued on we discussed and decided that the moisturizing effects of the rain forest, lack of much direct sunlight, and walking hills every day must have some rejuvenatory effect. On the way down she was looking at every For Sale and For Rent sign.

Kids on the road:


Not an uncommon sight:


This castle is real- turrets on each corner and battlement walls 12 feet high. Ready for the end of civilization:


....and speaking of civilization.... one of the 3 main streets in town:

Well....it is a tropical rain forest!

The past 2 days have provided just a few dry hours. The average annual rain fall in Boquete is 28 feet.

We managed a few trips into town to re-stock the larder and try out a new diner.

Cafe Nelvis is a local-owned restaurant serving a small selection cafeteria-style. The beauty of this is just keep pointing until your plate is full. I had the fried chicken, rice&beans, and salad with a glass of very good, but mysterious fresh juice. The chicken appeared to have been (and likely was) chopped by a machete- no distinguishable pieces like you get in the US. The meal was tasty, portions large, and the price unbeatable at $3.25.

Today has been dry so De Anne walked about 8 miles, and in the clear air got her sight-seeing in.